Monday 3 October 2016

Samoa and American Samoa

3 weeks in the Samoas

From Auckland, I took a direct flight to Apia, Samoa which was about 4 hours long via Virgin Australia. After 2 amazing weeks in Samoa, I spent another 2 days in Pago Pago, American Samoa and flew to a tiny Ofu Island of population 300 for 7 days.

Here are my top 10 experiences in both Samoas:

1. Alofaaga Blowholes, Savai'i
The blowholes are incredible and shoots up 20, 30m into the sky. If you throw in coconuts at the right timing, it shoots up and lands several metres away. It's so much fun.


2. In Samoa's most famous attraction, To Sua Ocean Trench, some visitors might hesitate to climb down the 15m slippery ladder. Most of those who make it swim within the calm, clear turquoise waters with safe activities like swimming, shrimp and people watching. The more adventurous might try to jump off the 2m platform into the water. Far fewer might attempt to swim through a natural formation: a underwater tunnel linking the trench to a cave and out into the choppy open ocean. So of course, that's what I did (with a huge dollop of anxiety and hesitation). Swimming at the opening of the tunnel, I had no idea how long or wide the tunnel is and how long I have to hold my breath, but I know many people have done it before. After trying to calm myself myself with a few deep breaths, I watched the flow and waited for the good moment when the water is rushing into the tunnel, I plunged into the water and dived. I was a lot more buoyant than I had remembered and my back and hands scraped the sharp ridges on the roof and I struggled to move forward. I was stuck, floating on the top of the tunnel. I kicked my fins hard and one came loose.

It's a funny feeling, I could feel panic rising in my body and a fact registering that I might drown in this strangely beautiful underwater tunnel so far away from home in my brain. I held in my precious mouth of air. I kicked harder with one fin remaining and dislodged myself and swam for my life.

I saw the light at the end of the tunnel becoming brighter, broke the surface and gasped.

While I hyperventilated and was shaking in shock, my friend went to recover my missing fin and came back with it a few seconds later.  I sat down on the rocks to catch my breath and admire the contrast between the mysterious dark cave and the beautiful green glowing water. After a few minutes of sitting in the sloshing waters, we decided to head out into the open ocean (really 不怕死,I know). We swam under a short rock formation and it was liberating to emerge from a dark cave into a wide open ocean that stretches for as far as the eye could see with the sun shining down.

We went back into the cave soon after. The only way in from the trench was the same as the only way out. I had to swim in the long underwater tunnel again. Not left with any options, I gulped and dived. I decided I had enough scratches on my back, so this time round, I crawled upside down out of the tunnel. It's like rock climbing, but horizontal and in the water. Lol. It worked a lot better and I survived yet another day to explore Samoa!

3. The second near death experience was in Anuu'u Island, a small volcanic island off the main island Tutuila in American Samoa. We took a local boat for US$2 for 15 minutes to reach this island of 400 people. Walking under the blazing hot sun for a couple of hours, I was ready get into the water to cool off, but never like what I had imagined. We walked to the Eastern end of Anuu'u Island, to see dramatic ocean waves crashing into rocks at Ma'ama'a Cove. I sought shelter from the sun standing in the only narrow strip of shadow available, about 2 metres higher than the sea level with the occasional harmless spray of water. I was zipping my bag after putting my camera in when I heard a shout.

"There's a big one coming!"

"Wha..?"

Because I could react, a huge force of water hit me and all I saw was white. I was swept off my feet by the force, and the next moment I was on the floor. I could feel the water retreating into the ocean, dragging me along. When I realised I wasn't going to be swept into the crashing waves below, I scrambled higher ground with adrenaline pumping, screaming and cursing. I was completely drenched from head to toe.

The positive thing is, I was cooled off properly. Everything I had, except my sunglasses which were swept off, were still kept dry by my waterproof bag.

4. The last near death experience was when I fell from the 110c scooter in heavy rain on the main South Coast Road. The rain misted my sunglasses and road signs were few and far in between. When I spotted cars in the one lane bridge while scooting down the hill, I squeezed the brakes hard, lost balance and fell. I was sprawled on the ground, and my right leg trapped under the scooter. Passers-by came to my rescue and lifted the bike off. A lady offered a plaster for my bleeding knee. Another man made sure my eyes were following his finger when he moved it around and I was okay before I scooted an hour back to the scooter rental shop to check for damages and patch up my knee.

Thankfully, the only damage to the bike was the mirror, which was an easy fix. No charges were asked. I spent the next 3 weeks dousing my swollen knee in alcohol, antiseptic cream and humongous plasters, but no real harm were done. Now I have a cool Samoan tattoo on my knee, thanks to a silly mistake and the asphalt!


Maybe 4 experiences will do for now :)